ControlLED Posted Wednesday at 15:49 Author Share Posted Wednesday at 15:49 1 hour ago, ukscroger said: I'm going to flower my next lot overnight as I think it might be better to combat the cold temperatures. I'm also going to upgrade the ventilation and am not really sure what's best. I came here looking for heating options and have a few questions about other things. -fan heaters. seem cheapest- are there any benefits to more expensive heaters in a lung room? -oil rads. I can see they may be better in tents over fan heaters to avoid hot draughts?? -bar heaters, ceramic heaters- don't how they're different to oil rads in a tent really -heat mats- dont know if thats individually under each pot or basically a mini underfloor heating system? Is it totally safe if I cause a flood? -inline duct heater- seem most expensive Regards lung rooms and grow tents- how many fans do people run into and out of the tent and room? How are the controllers typically triggered? Does the ACI controller69 have recipes for multiple fan configurations, lung room control, tents? A final question- if the outdoor RH is 99% then what use is exhausting warm conditioned and dry air* from the tent to outdoors? If the humidifier is pulling humidity down and the heater is keeping it warm then it's getting to the realms of a sealed, semi-sealed grow. I guess it's all about balancing the chance of moulds and the power costs to combat the air outside but at the moment a HEPA filtered intake and a semi-sealed lung room feels like the best option over constantly exhausting and heating+dehu. it is very common for growers to run their lights on period at night as it makes it easier if you are using a lung room then you have the option of any kind of heater fan heaters are great but if your in a confined space you need clearance in front of it otherwise the plant in front of it will end up well over 40 degrees and probably get fried in the "firing line" but at the same time one benefit of fan heaters is they also dry the air out much more than a radiator would if you have a lung room i would suggest a fan heater in the lung room usually you would have an outtake on the room then just duct to you lung room for the intake the controllers we are familiar with have parameters you can set for example 60% humidity allowing a 5% "swing" so it will try to keep t between 55 and 65% at all times if your running a sealed setup its good to use a controller with a dump setting that will replenish the air in the room once an hour for example Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ControlLED Posted Wednesday at 15:50 Author Share Posted Wednesday at 15:50 1 hour ago, ukscroger said: I was going to start dialling it back an hour a day- I think I only have a couple of weeks left at most crop steering is a winner matey deffo a good thing to do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ControlLED Posted Wednesday at 15:53 Author Share Posted Wednesday at 15:53 1 hour ago, ukscroger said: They come on at 08:30 at the mo. Are you really saying it's less stressful to do a full 24hr dark period rather than 2x 18hrs starting today? I was about to go and change the timer in 10 minutes. i love a 24hr dark period even a 48 hour dark period as soon as your plant is in the darkness for more than 6 hours flowering hormones are released so by initiating a long dark period before flower you are essentially pumping your plants full of flowering hormones giving them a "kick up the arse into flower" also a dark period before harvest give them 24/48 hours of un distrubed teprene production without intense light evaporating it away making for better smell 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herbal Kint Posted Wednesday at 16:04 Share Posted Wednesday at 16:04 36 minutes ago, MySoulIsMine said: What do you mean? Do you mean using gas central heating ? or a gas powered heater in the tent? Central etc , i use gas stove for heating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukscroger Posted Wednesday at 16:31 Share Posted Wednesday at 16:31 27 minutes ago, ControlLED said: it is very common for growers to run their lights on period at night as it makes it easier if you are using a lung room then you have the option of any kind of heater fan heaters are great but if your in a confined space you need clearance in front of it otherwise the plant in front of it will end up well over 40 degrees and probably get fried in the "firing line" but at the same time one benefit of fan heaters is they also dry the air out much more than a radiator would if you have a lung room i would suggest a fan heater in the lung room usually you would have an outtake on the room then just duct to you lung room for the intake the controllers we are familiar with have parameters you can set for example 60% humidity allowing a 5% "swing" so it will try to keep t between 55 and 65% at all times if your running a sealed setup its good to use a controller with a dump setting that will replenish the air in the room once an hour for example Thanks. I didn't think about fan heaters also being the best at working as a semi dehu- it makes sense. If outdoors is 70% isn't it detrimental to push out what inside when it gets to 60? Isn't this how the system can end up in a feedback look with things permanently switched on? 24 minutes ago, ControlLED said: i love a 24hr dark period even a 48 hour dark period as soon as your plant is in the darkness for more than 6 hours flowering hormones are released so by initiating a long dark period before flower you are essentially pumping your plants full of flowering hormones giving them a "kick up the arse into flower" also a dark period before harvest give them 24/48 hours of un distrubed teprene production without intense light evaporating it away making for better smell Bugbee said try a 24hr light period instead for extra terps and potency. I'm now looking at stuff which details how the dry and cure effect it loads more- I didn't realise there's quite so much going on after it's left the pot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MindSoup Posted Wednesday at 18:21 Share Posted Wednesday at 18:21 (edited) 5 hours ago, Herbal Kint said: Ill add on winter times if your using gas for heating not a bad idea to get gas alarm and CO alarm if your using passive intake due negative pressure outake can create,if your having head pain or felling dizzy might be good to check above. Can you elaborate on this geez? I live in a really small flat and have an LPG boiler so my ears have pricked up Edited Wednesday at 18:21 by MindSoup Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herbal Kint Posted Wednesday at 18:38 Share Posted Wednesday at 18:38 @MindSoup just get alarm its cheap as chips nowdays,think i gave 10 for mine,for monoxide for like 15. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MindSoup Posted Wednesday at 18:45 Share Posted Wednesday at 18:45 Yeah good shout, I haven't even got a smoke alarm at the moment . How does the tent intake cause the CO/CO2 though? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herbal Kint Posted Wednesday at 20:53 Share Posted Wednesday at 20:53 Am not a gas man mate You close doors windows as its winter you have xxxm3 outake from your grow so it creates negative pressure that can pull back from your chimney or gas heater,bathroom,depends on scenario and how old your gas stove for heating is.Think new ones have intake for air to. Even kitchen hood can cause it as said depending how gas boiler is set,hence best have alarm imo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Luchóg Posted Wednesday at 22:14 Share Posted Wednesday at 22:14 I have a small veg area in a shed . I use a heat mat, an oil rad, and I use the D.I.Y. ,tea candle and terracotta plant pot heater. It is dangerous,it's a flame, but if it's made safe inside a steel box or case, and outside the house it's not a bad way to keep the chill out and the energy bill down. It is also handy to have a small HPS or MH light alongside an LED light. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MindSoup Posted Thursday at 07:20 Share Posted Thursday at 07:20 10 hours ago, Herbal Kint said: Am not a gas man mate You close doors windows as its winter you have xxxm3 outake from your grow so it creates negative pressure that can pull back from your chimney or gas heater,bathroom,depends on scenario and how old your gas stove for heating is.Think new ones have intake for air to. Even kitchen hood can cause it as said depending how gas boiler is set,hence best have alarm imo. Oh right I see what you mean, sucking the exhaust from the boiler back inside sorting of thing. I'd never thought of that, might have to grab myself an alarm. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MistYGr33n Posted Thursday at 11:07 Share Posted Thursday at 11:07 21 hours ago, Herbal Kint said: Ill add on winter times if your using gas for heating not a bad idea to get gas alarm and CO alarm if your using passive intake due negative pressure outake can create,if your having head pain or felling dizzy might be good to check above. I don’t follow. I was gas safe for 20 years. If you have head pain dizzy etc that’s CO poisoning and by the time you feel ill it could be too late. CO kills in 4 minutes. The “silent killer”, we call it. That’s why you need/should have CO alarms next to every gas appliance. I just don’t get the correlation between the air intake and the CO? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MistYGr33n Posted Thursday at 11:08 Share Posted Thursday at 11:08 (edited) 21 hours ago, Herbal Kint said: Ill add on winter times if your using gas for heating not a bad idea to get gas alarm and CO alarm if your using passive intake due negative pressure outake can create,if your having head pain or felling dizzy might be good to check above. I don’t follow. I was gas safe for 20 years. If you have head pain dizzy etc that’s CO poisoning and by the time you feel ill it could be too late. CO kills in 4 minutes. The “silent killer”, we call it. That’s why you need/should have CO alarms next to every gas appliance. I just don’t get the correlation between the air intake and the CO? Edited Thursday at 11:08 by MistYGr33n Double post Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ControlLED Posted Thursday at 12:46 Author Share Posted Thursday at 12:46 20 hours ago, ukscroger said: Thanks. I didn't think about fan heaters also being the best at working as a semi dehu- it makes sense. If outdoors is 70% isn't it detrimental to push out what inside when it gets to 60? Isn't this how the system can end up in a feedback look with things permanently switched on? Bugbee said try a 24hr light period instead for extra terps and potency. I'm now looking at stuff which details how the dry and cure effect it loads more- I didn't realise there's quite so much going on after it's left the pot. a prolonged period of light will make for less oils and terpenes in my opinion you may notice your crop smells the most when it "wakes up" as the intense light and heat will evaporate some of the oils which is the reason why it smells most in the morning as these smells are leaving the plant that have been produced throughout the night, i could possibly be wrong but it has always seen me right and test branches from lights straight off and test branches from 2 days in the dark seemed stickier and terpier than the ones taken straight away 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlowerChild420 Posted Thursday at 13:01 Share Posted Thursday at 13:01 Ukscroger I'd ignore Bugbee. The dude grows hemp and doesn't smoke. I don't give a fuck what his opinion is on smoke quality. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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