NormanNugget Posted August 7 Author Share Posted August 7 2 minutes ago, yan said: This will hopefully allow me to continue enjoying the growing without having too much end product to get through. Thank you, I think that exactly describes my goal. When I was 16 I would never have imagined one day I’d be thinking ‘shit man, I’ve just got way too much weed’ 2 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Military Grade Posted August 7 Share Posted August 7 When I was smoking blunts I always thought my grow setup up would naturally expand over time, but since dry herb vaping only I soon realised I don't need the amount of weed I was already producing due to the amount of jars of weed that started to accumulate in my cupboards , so down sizing and stealth became the natural direct of my grow setup. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NormanNugget Posted August 7 Author Share Posted August 7 3 minutes ago, Military Grade said: that Cheddar #1 is quite day dreamy I’ve just had some Gazzurple and am struggling to remember how to communicate properly.. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flamedodger Posted August 7 Share Posted August 7 (edited) 13 minutes ago, NormanNugget said: I didn’t think plasterboard would be much good with all the moisture. Certainly an attractive option as it’s so easy to put back to a normal room. A decent eggshell paint will take care of that. Put some shelf brackets or some wood either end, you have a scrog support or pillow shelf Edited August 7 by Flamedodger 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CuriousOrange Posted August 7 Share Posted August 7 2 hours ago, NormanNugget said: circumstances may not allow me to carry on in the nearish future. Were it not for this line I would say go with the whole cupboard grow. I much prefer hiding in the closet to growing in the tent. No tent side suck to fight, I don’t think the cupboard is any harder to hide smell with than a tent, if you have an extraction fan running through a filter it’s the same difference really, you would have passive intake holes on a tent which are surely no different to a gap under a door really?. It all depends on how the critical circumstances develop really doesn’t it and that has to be your call, with that in mind best bet would be if you are able to set up a minimal effort version of grow cupboard to test the waters, hopefully you shouldnt need to buy as much new gear compared to downsizing to a tent space. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shumroom Posted August 7 Share Posted August 7 I think all the angles have been covered Atb 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NormanNugget Posted August 9 Author Share Posted August 9 I’ve decided to go for the cupboard. I’ll take the advice of @Flamedodger and plasterboard over the PIR insulation. I reckon I’ll use soundbloc plasterboard which should keep a lot of the noise at bay. Progress has been ongoing. • All the stud work is up • Six double sockets with USB wired up • Double socket in the loft above • Removed the old loft hatch • Removed loft boards above • New 25mm ply roof installed I’m hoping to get it all insulated and boarded this weekend. Does anyone have suggestions for additional stud work to put in for hanging equipment? I think I’ll use easy roll hangers to suspend a false ceiling, attached to that 2no. circulation fans and the light. Carbon filter hung off of the ceiling and extractor in the loft (I don’t think both will fit in the wardrobe annoyingly. Down low I’ll fit some USB fans to circulate the incoming air. I’ve battened around at about a meter for a net. But figure I can make a net frame on legs if I don’t want to attach to the sides. Any advice before the wall linings go on would be much appreciated! 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flamedodger Posted August 9 Share Posted August 9 Light proofing doors can be troublesome, over size your door stops and add draught strips. Make sure you stand inside it with the door shut, make sure it’s proper dark 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NormanNugget Posted August 9 Author Share Posted August 9 @Flamedodger I’m thinking I’ll sandwich some insulation between mdf or ply and screw it to the existing door (which is old, gappy and split) then made get this to hit the door stops. I’ll probably fit batwing seals to the stops too for extra sound and air insulation. D’you reckon I need to stick more battens in under the plasterboard for fixing stuff? Struggling to plan ahead having not built a room before.. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Military Grade Posted August 9 Share Posted August 9 1 hour ago, Flamedodger said: Light proofing doors can be troublesome Dam right there mate 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flamedodger Posted August 9 Share Posted August 9 1 hour ago, NormanNugget said: D’you reckon I need to stick more battens in under the plasterboard for fixing stuff? It won’t hurt, as long as you have an idea in your head where everything is gonna go. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NormanNugget Posted August 10 Author Share Posted August 10 @Flamedodger if I’m just gonna paint the plasterboard, how should I fill the joints? If I use scrim tape I guess I’ll have to have a bulge of filler? I was thinking to just use filler or even caulk the joints then filler over? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flamedodger Posted August 10 Share Posted August 10 (edited) 3 hours ago, NormanNugget said: If I use scrim tape I guess I’ll have to have a bulge of filler? I was thinking to just use filler or even caulk the joints then filler over? You should only have joints in the corners, so decorators caulk should be fine, the scrim tape just stops it cracking if you using a plaster based material.. if you do go for a filler, gyproc easy fill 60 is really good and dries in an hour Edited August 10 by Flamedodger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flamedodger Posted August 11 Share Posted August 11 On 10/08/2024 at 07:48, NormanNugget said: If I use scrim tape I guess I’ll have to have a bulge of filler? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NormanNugget Posted August 11 Author Share Posted August 11 Cheers @Flamedodger. I’ve got all the insulation in and got it boarded out. Made an absolute hash of the boarding I had to make loads of joins because of the awkward access. Also just cocked up and made lots of holes/damage. Gonna have to get creative with the filler! I’m sure it’ll come good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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