NormanNugget Posted August 4 Author Share Posted August 4 3 hours ago, sweettooth said: out an eave or something Cheers for looking in. I’m going to install roof tile vents in the loft anyway as the air circulation is crap up there. On one I will for an adaptor so I can attach 6” ducting. Obviously this will create a little warm patch on the roof so would melt any snow in that little spot. However it’s not uncommon for these to be used for bathroom extractors, kitchen extractors etc. so I’m not too bothered. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NormanNugget Posted August 4 Author Share Posted August 4 @CuriousOrange thanks for sharing your setup man. Super super helpful! I was planning to make a raised floor and have tube heaters under, then the air will intake from a gap under the door and through the floorboards. I am however thinking I might cover the floorboards in insulation and hope I get enough air in from the front. Since I have enough head height I think I’ll just mount the CF and fan in the section above the door and keep it full height (2.7m) although it is a lot of extra space to heat I started battening out yesterday, and today I will at least get all sockets positioned ready for the electrician tomorrow. I think I’ll have 6 outlets above the door (light, extractor, UV, circ. fan, 2 spare). I’ll also have 6 sockets starting around 700mm up on the left side of the door (heat tubes x2, option for heat mat, humidifier, circ. fans, mother light, heat and fan) I’m using sockets with 2no. USB outlets as I figured this could be handy in the future. Any comments on layout appreciated! Gotta get it locked in this afternoon. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CuriousOrange Posted August 4 Share Posted August 4 37 minutes ago, NormanNugget said: cover the floorboards in insulation and hope I get enough air in from the front Yep, good idea this is something I am playing with. Over last winter I trialled having some broken paving slabs jigsaw pieced as a floor with narrowish gaps between. Tube heater in the centre to heat up paving slabs and air pocket and carpet tiles around the outside to locally insulate a little and force air to enter through the centre and have to mix beneath the raised floor before being able to trickle round the edges in to the space. Seemed to work reasonably well, about April I needed to remove the carpet tiles to allow more air exchange (and more external air due to expelling in to my own lung room) and due to our crappy start to the summer the tube heater wasn’t removed until mid June. Your plan looks good on paper mate. My only thought is that having the full height will probably be a blessing in summer for heat management, especially if the brick walls are sun facing in afternoons (mine are, the bricks work as a splendid heat store on the 30 degree days). You may want to either mount a fan at the top to push all heat back down or consider a way of hanging an undersized baffle of some sort part way down in the winter months just to lessen the size of the space you are heating to a degree. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NormanNugget Posted August 4 Author Share Posted August 4 @CuriousOrange the brick walls are a party wall and to my bedroom so should stay pretty stable temp wise. I think I’ll insulate the floor then have a vent from the front and insulation channels so air is forced into the two tub heaters, then ducts above. Basically forcing the air to run along the heat tubes before going up into the space. I like the idea of a baffle. I could make a ceiling that’s got gaps around to the CF above. Then mount the light and circ. fans to it so the whole ‘raft’ with the light and fans can move up and down as one. I found these ‘Exolux Pro Ezi-Roll Light Hangers’ that apparently you can balance and then just pull the light up and down at will.. looks like a good idea. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NormanNugget Posted August 4 Author Share Posted August 4 Progress is made in the cupboard. Added studwork for the electrics and also to make sure I have fixing points for the linings. I’ve not studded out the back wall yet as it might get in the way of the electrician. Three double sockets with USB down low, to the LHS of the door. Three double sockets up high above the door, also with USB. And one wall studded out ready for insulation. Just the back wall to stud out. Also need to spend a bit of time thinking about heights for adding more horizontal battens for attaching kit later. It feels good to be making some progress in there! 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flamedodger Posted August 4 Share Posted August 4 Insulate and plasterboard would be most cost effective. Tape and fill any joints and paint. I kinda wish I had done mine like it know, I think it would be a. breeze to keep clean and leaves no gaps for pests. The most important bit to insulate will be above the door height. If you keep your fan above it and attach a small length of duct pipe to it, you can attach your filter above canopy, or use some soft ducting to drop your filter onto the deck. It’s might be handy to have the option, there’s plenty of posts on here where growers have their filters pulling cool air over their plants if temps are really hot. Just throwing ideas out there mate and you look decent with the tools 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CuriousOrange Posted August 4 Share Posted August 4 40 minutes ago, NormanNugget said: I could make a ceiling that’s got gaps around to the CF above. Then mount the light and circ. fans to it so the whole ‘raft’ with the light and fans can move up and down as one. Oooh Matron! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NormanNugget Posted August 4 Author Share Posted August 4 @Flamedodger cheers man. I’ll have a think about the extraction. I reckon it would be good to have a fixed point in the cupboard and the loft so I can attach a fan or ducting etc. either end easily. Should be pretty flexible that way. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flamedodger Posted August 4 Share Posted August 4 CT1 is your friend and if you use expanding foam…use a gun 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NormanNugget Posted August 5 Author Share Posted August 5 Does anyone have advice on making a good seal on the ducting where it goes through into the loft? @Flamedodger @Calypsos @CuriousOrange you both seem pretty handy with the grow room builds.. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NormanNugget Posted August 5 Author Share Posted August 5 @green_machine I’m currently setting up a new space and would like you opinion of rigid vs flexible ducting. I’m most concerned about noise and was planning to use Phonic Trap ducting. Do you think rigid would be a better choice? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CuriousOrange Posted August 5 Share Posted August 5 Either these or you could do what I do which is use the phonic trap ducting you mention and cut the hole a couple of mill too small so the ducting is a bit of a snug fit, probably not perfect but hasn’t caused me any issues in a couple of years. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yan Posted August 5 Share Posted August 5 nice flange ,, 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CuriousOrange Posted August 5 Share Posted August 5 Just the right size for getting your ventilation pipe around @yan 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NormanNugget Posted August 5 Author Share Posted August 5 Jesus guys… any opportunity isn’t it! Filth! I kinda don’t get the point of the wall flange.. I need to connect the ducting either side so that guy isn’t much help right? Or am I being thick?? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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