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Military Grade

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Posted (edited)

I've had a couple of wins with 'faulty' 1080ti's listed at £100, both simply needed a good clean and re-paste. If listing says GPU works but shuts down after X minutes then it's probably worth a go depending on price. The guy who listed one of my GPUs said he'd tried re-paste but it made no difference, I took it apart and he had used the wrong length screws (of which there are many) to secure the die to the GPU cooler so it wasn't making a tight enough fit to efficiently transfer the heat away. 

 Cleaned the GPU board with iso, a good sized blob of thermal paste, all the right screws in the right place, and it hasn't missed a beat since.  

 

Think I paid £100 for card, 50p's worth of iso and about £3 worth or thermal paste. lol    

 

Edited to add - I haven't managed to get the £100 2080ti I bought a few pages ago working yet, briefly plugged it in and it lights up with fans at full speed and no signal so I'll maybe investigate further with a multi meter on a rainy day.

 

 

Edited by Saddam
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That's awesome (the 1080TIs!)

 

I had to get a 3080TI replaced a couple of weeks ago because one of the two PCI-E power sockets melted!  I looked it up and it said NVIDIA wasn't honouring the Warranty on those returns as it was considered user error - not putting the power lead in snugly enough - I know it wasn't that because I fitted it and it had lasted 18 months in place before it happened.  Luckily the shop [that I got heckled for using - CEX] honoured their warranty and I got a full refund, but wanted another so paid them, got £70 back and the replacement is working smoothly with another 24 month warranty :D

You sound more competent than me.  I've been self-building for 25 years or so, but
you know... unpack, plug in, configure. I've repasted and so on but nowt beyond that.

Interesting hearing about those adventures in refurb savings :)

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10 hours ago, MidgeSmith said:

 

I had to get a 3080TI replaced a couple of weeks ago because one of the two PCI-E power sockets melted!

Blimey what 3rd party manufacturer was that made by?

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6 hours ago, Military Grade said:

Blimey what 3rd party manufacturer was that made by?


ASUS, who I usually prefer as a manufacturer.  NVIDIA themselves are arseholes about it weirdly and it is a known problem.

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There are a lot of old Macs going for a song at the mo, late 2014 Mac minis and iMacs. They’re unsupported by Apple now, but if you install open core boot loader and apply the correct patches can run the latest OS. Add in ssd and more ram and they work great. I’ve got my eye on a late 2014 Mac mini for £85. Shit for gaming obviously, but imo, so much a better experience for general stuff. I have a hub for switching and can attach the mini behind the monitor 😎

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5 hours ago, MidgeSmith said:

ASUS, who I usually prefer as a manufacturer. 

My preferred brand too 👍

 

I wonder if it was caused by arcing from lose the loose connection?

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Posted (edited)

Either that or the socket fried because of one of those shitty PCI-E Y-splitters. :soap:  

 

Edited to add - What PSU are you running? Is it a full modular with proper 8 pin (6+2) PCI-E leads or are you running an older PSU with 6 pin PCI-E connected to an 8 pin splitter? If it's the latter then you really need a new PSU asap.  @Flamedodger

Edited by Saddam
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Posted (edited)

I just got that windows message about the security support for win 10 will end October 2025

 

I guess i will have to treat myself to a new CPU, Mobo, RAM and a case at some point lol

Edited by Military Grade
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Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, Military Grade said:

My preferred brand too 👍

 

I wonder if it was caused by arcing from lose the loose connection?


It undoubtedly melted due to arcing, but I can't figure out why.

I think as Saddam said the connector from the powersupply (Corsair, who again I generally trust) or the socket must have been faulty.

The connector wasn't loose. It was balls-deep and had been that way since I installed it.  When I put these things in, I always do a pull and push to see how engaged they are and it was firm as...
 

Edited by MidgeSmith
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Posted (edited)

Also... I check for movement of he principal connectors / CPU Cooler / Memory in the case whenever I have cause to open it.  It must be that the connection between metal parts was loose inside the connector's plastic housing though, or there'd have been no way for it to arc.  Again, I agree, shitty connector is all it could have been and 18 months of expansion and contracting must have increased the gap.

🤷‍♂️

Edited by MidgeSmith
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The £6.50 wraith ripper cooler is working perfectly with the £26 threadripper CPU which is also working on the £80 motherboard which also 'didn't work'. lol   

 

Asus Prime X399a mobo £80

Threadripper CPU £26

Wraith Ripper cooler £6.50

Corsair 4000x rgb tower £35 (no glass panel)

Corsair 4000x replacement glass panel £18

Corsair RM850x PSU refurbished £86

 

World's cheapest Threadripper build?  🐼

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Posted (edited)
6 minutes ago, Saddam said:

The £6.50 wraith ripper cooler is working perfectly with the £26 threadripper CPU which is also working on the £80 motherboard which also 'didn't work'. lol   

 

Asus Prime X399a mobo £80

Threadripper CPU £26

Wraith Ripper cooler £6.50

Corsair 4000x rgb tower £35 (no glass panel)

Corsair 4000x replacement glass panel £18

Corsair RM850x PSU refurbished £86

 

World's cheapest Threadripper build?  🐼


EPIC Win!

The best £250 PC in the multiverse lol.

Edited by MidgeSmith
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The RGB is nauseating, it's like watching a sick unicorn throw up rainbows in a skittles factory. lol  

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