Magic M Posted December 31, 2016 Share Posted December 31, 2016 great thread 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Percygrower_420 Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 Why is this thread not pinned? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Percygrower_420 Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 (edited) Setting up a bed for this myself at the moment. Used to have a similar grow and used aquarium water changes for watering! Bud tasted muuuch nicer than the bottle grows I do now (at least that's how I remember it ). Yields weren't as high, but that could be down to experience and strains. It was a pretty basic compost mix too. My mix that is currently settling is: Coco coir 2 parts perlite 1 part vermiculite 1 part Compost from heap 4 parts Worm castings 1 part Leaf mulch 1 part Shrimp meal jug crab meal jug kelp meal jug blood/bone meal 1 jug Sharp sand 1 jug Load of red worms from the heap Straw mulch top with clover. I've stuck it outside my tent with some CFLs for the clover and am watering it in. I won't be using it till next month probably. Want to let it stabilise first to give it a fair run. For watering I will be adding as a supplement: liquid kelp molasses Aloe Vera juice i would lay off the liquid kelp & aloe vera juice apart from that SPOT ON small amount of unsulphured molasses in - pop corn teas or ewc teas if you want the bush to go mad add coconut water they go nuts Roadrunner told me no need to let the mix cook you can plant right away no waiting needed. Popcorn teas and mycorrhizal fungi will give your soil life & stabilise along with EWC earth worm castings adding the WORMS is very important moves the soil about and gives fresh EWC sets you up for your next grow. Edited January 9, 2017 by Percygrower321 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 Based on availability I've got kelp tea (from dried), wormery run off, aloe vera extract, molasses, coconut water to use in my feeds or foliar sprays. Intend to use small amounts of all these in moderation every other watering - whadya reckon? I'm not inclined to use anything unless/until its needed. Got a load of myco packs so plenty of those have gone in. They are in 39l settling down. pH is currently very high, so hoping that might settle as the compost breaks down. Stuck a load of mixed clover I found cheap as chips on the top layer. Any reason you advise to back off the aloe vera @@Percygrower321 ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 Here's the soil as it was settling on tarp: Close up its absolutely teaming with stuff - springtails, centipedes, all sorts! Bit against the grain bringing them in to the grow! In pots, and the clover I used as a cover, at least 5 types in there: I've always wanted to give something like this a go, as essentially that is all my outdoor grows are. I just keep a fertile raised bed, never turn it over. Just top dress it every year and add mulch. My outdoor plants are always, always better than my indoor grow - maybe not in total yields but in looks, deficiencies and taste/smell. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Percygrower_420 Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 (edited) Based on availability I've got kelp tea (from dried), wormery run off, aloe vera extract, molasses, coconut water to use in my feeds or foliar sprays. Intend to use small amounts of all these in moderation every other watering - whadya reckon? I'm not inclined to use anything unless/until its needed. Got a load of myco packs so plenty of those have gone in. They are in 39l settling down. pH is currently very high, so hoping that might settle as the compost breaks down. Stuck a load of mixed clover I found cheap as chips on the top layer. Any reason you advise to back off the aloe vera @@Percygrower321 ? i just find the more you add something the more likly things go a stray, along with getting poor genetics 1st no-till grow i used your list above along with batmix it was toooo hot 2nd no-till grow road runner list to a T and plants have faded nicly. i'm sure aloe vera is good for roots they use it for clones. i find clover good for the start but it all dies and mulch is used instead. Just cut down some plants and about to reuse the soil, i saw little baby worms so they are populating which is good. Your list of extras seem OK if its second run or third of same soil i i would say kelp is a must in the teas. Edited January 9, 2017 by Percygrower321 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magic M Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 (edited) i just find the more you add something the more likly things go a stray, along with getting poor genetics 1st no-till grow i used your list above along with batmix it was toooo hot 2nd no-till grow road runner list to a T and plants have faded nicly. i'm sure aloe vera is good for roots they use it for clones. i find clover good for the start but it all dies and mulch is used instead. Just cut down some plants and about to reuse the soil, i saw little baby worms so they are populating which is good. Your list of extras seem OK if its second run or third of same soil i i would say kelp is a must in the teas. aloe vera is for more than just roots , it is loaded with vitamins, minerals and amino acids playing a valuable roll in the soil food web. It is also a surfactant helping prevent dry spots in hydrophobic soils and an excellent additive in foliar sprays. i use aloe vera constantly & my plants love it. Edited January 9, 2017 by Magic M 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magic M Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 here is a few of the benefits of aloe vera complements of Clackamus Coot A few properties of Aloe Vera Amino AcidAloe Vera contains the following Amino Acids: Isoleucine, Leucine, Lysine, Methionine, Phenylalanine, Threonine, Valine, And Tryptophan, Alanine, Arginine, Asparagine, Cysteine, Glutamic Acid, Glycine, Histidine, Proline, Serine, Tyrosine, Glutamine, And Aspartic Acid.EnzymesThose include the following: Amylase, Bradykinase, Catalase, Cellulase, Lipase, Oxidase, Alkaline Phosphatase, Proteolytiase, Creatine Phosphokinase and Carboxypeptidase.Micro & Micro NutrientsThese include Vitamins A, C, E and B2, B3, B5, B6 and B12 in addition to Choline, Calcium, Magnesium, Zinc, Magnanese, Chromium, Selenium, Copper, Iorn, Potassium, Phosphorus and Sodium.Lingnins & PolysaccharidesThey include: Galactose, Xylose, Arabinose, Acetylated Mannose And Acemannan.And of course there's the Salicylic acid compound and its associated benefits as far as root development. Adding 1/4 cup of Aloe Vera juice/extract/whatever term you want to use to 1 gallon of water and use that to wet your rooting medium - even Grodan Rockwool cubes - will give you root size and development that is nothing short of amazing. Or at least in my experience. HTHCC 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happy Ending Posted January 15, 2017 Share Posted January 15, 2017 I found the following soil recipe in Jorge Cervantes' "The Cannabis Encyclopedia". This is the recipe used by Humboldtlocal, a large scale grower in Northern California. I have scaled it down, because the original recipe was for 300-gallon tubs. My own notes are in italics. 50 Litres High quality organic potting soil. From what I've read, the best thing would probably be a loam-based topsoil mixed with organic compost of your choosing. 4L Chicken Manure Note: this is for dry, not pelleted manure. If using pelleted manure, use 1 litre. 1.5 L Worm castings 5L Perlite 550g bone meal 100g kelp meal 100g oyster shell meal Hard to get in the UK, you could use Ecothrive Charge or your own homemade beetle frass instead. 450g Dolomite Lime 450g Gypsum And, of course a few worms! 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irishgirl Posted January 15, 2017 Share Posted January 15, 2017 Nice one happy ending. All the best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nudger36 Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 On 11/23/2016 at 11:30 AM, muffintop said: I'm looking forward to my hubbabubbasmelloscope finishing. I can't wait to taste this lady this time around, as the other time I grew her she was in coco. did she get big? seen some massive HBSS's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muffintop Posted January 25, 2017 Author Share Posted January 25, 2017 (edited) Very, she was done in about 70 days. I have the sativa looking pheno at the moment, so I expect her to go 80 plus days. Edited January 25, 2017 by muffintop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ska Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 I've just started a no till diary, all welcome to poke your head in link in my signature. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Percygrower_420 Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 Any no-till heads welcome to check out my diary http://www.uk420.com/boards/index.php?/topic/377359-percygrower321-organic-living-soil-3rd-runs-growing-no-till/ Mainly growing out some humbolt seeds Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VikingDee Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 Guys I'm starting a compost grow, I've used a supersoil mix a few times before and because of it I've got some bits n bobs. Volcanic rock dust, charge (frass), some P guano, and I've got some kelp meal on the way. I have Epsom, powdered egg shells and organic molasses on hand. If if I throw in some worms and top dress with straw have a gone basically no till? And will that mix get me through a run or is it lacking too much? I'm not sure I'm brave enough to do this yet but it's I'm playing with the idea 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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