ditchthedealer Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 I just saved the photo of the plants to my desktop and zoomed in, I'm pretty certain there's some green veins on those leaves. When I started off growing I use to use BioBizz nutes, my plants were a lush green until a few weeks into flower and that same type of yellowing occurred, I would up the nutes and burn them, then lower the nutes then underfeed them making problems worse, this happened every grow I done. I stopped growing for a while and when I started back up I switched to OT nutes thinking it would solve the problem, but same thing happened again, lush green plants all through veg, but as soon as flowering was under way a few weeks in the yellowing would appear and I would end up overfeeding or underfeeding and not getting anywhere the potential of the crop. I then came across a post on here somewhere about soft water and how its lacking Mg and Calcium and seen others were using Humboldt Equilibrium, I got myself a bottle and give 1/4 ml pl every feed going up slightly near the end of flower and I can now keep my plants lush green until I decide to start lowering the feed right at the end. Are you in a soft or hard water area? Cheese at day 60, tips a bit burnt but still very green. Only since I used the Humboldt am I keeping my plants green. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
botanics Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 @@ditchthedealer I'm in soft water mate and yeah the Magnesium and Calcium needs to be looked at more then, it's something to do with because of the plants taking more Potassium and Phosphorus, the more they take the P and K the more the demand for Mg and C and symbiotic, hence why Mg issues tend to come around when they do. My issues with my girls are Magnesium based I think which has affected the N take up, I've managed them because my bloom food is fortified with Mg hence why I didn't apply my usual dose of epsom salts at the three week bloom mark with my autos though on this run but did so on the last so I know now that the extra Mg in my bloom food won't cut it for the water I'm using. I'm pretty sure here with Ananda's issue that it may be similar issues and that's my reason for sticking the pics up for him to compare and not stress too much about it all, do you reckon he'd be better off upping the Mg a bit ? (I'm reluctant to be honest as my auto XP is very limited) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchthedealer Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 @@botanics It was seeing your pics that made me think it was a soft water issue, I'm not sure on the dosage with the epsoms as I never got it to work for me, I'm also unsure of if you did up the Epsom's if it would have any undesired effects if a bit to much as I'm sure I read its not organic? I can recommend the Humboldt though, its one of my tools I wouldn't grow without now, the difference is night and day. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Satchitananda Posted March 22, 2016 Author Share Posted March 22, 2016 @@botanics Thanks mate, I have some Maxicrop Seaweed extract, will that be ok, do you think? I am going back to Bloom and no Grow now, since the worst day happened after I gave it Grow. Too much Grow can bugger up the buds can it? I didn't know. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchthedealer Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 @@ananda Are you in a soft water area? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Satchitananda Posted March 22, 2016 Author Share Posted March 22, 2016 (edited) @@ditchthedealer I actually have some Equilibrium as I have always had Cal/mag issues. I was never to sure on the dose and it didn't seem to do much. So this time I used PM's Cal Mag and it worked but may have caused other issues. I live in a soft water area too. Edited March 22, 2016 by ananda 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Satchitananda Posted March 22, 2016 Author Share Posted March 22, 2016 I think I will give it 4ml Bloom and 1/4ml Equilibrium next time. What do people think? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchthedealer Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 @@ananda I'm not 100% certain, but I'm pretty certain PM Calmag is not organic. I would bet my life the root of the problem is the soft water. Being that you have some Equilibrium I would suggest forget the PM Calmag and start using the Eq at 1/4 ml.... Just seen your reply, that's exactly what I would try, but you got to be patient with organics for it to kick in. I hope this solves the problem for you, I push the Eq up to 1/2 ml at around week 7 then back off before the last week. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
botanics Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 I reckon to give it a go mate and hopefully with @@ditchthedealer help here on this it'll be sorted, You're better off actually having the Calcium as well as the Magnesium because one affects the other and epsom are just MgSO4 (Magnesium Sulphate) bit at a time though, go easy like 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenfingers1987 Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 i used to use the pm magnecal and its great it wont cause any issues i used to use 0.5ml/litre all the way through and 1ml/ litre weeks 4 and 6 of bloom and you shouldnt get any mag defs, i know it is not organic but it works and it did not effect taste, smell, yield or anything it is a great product i find humboldt eq to be quite weak and take ages to have any effect wheras the pm stuff works faster imo and xp 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchthedealer Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 (edited) Its good stuff that Eq it contains Iron also. @@greenfingers1987 I overfed with it last week by accident gave it twice the dose, it must be fairly weak because I didnt notice any adverse effects. When I first started using it it took a while for it to kick in with Mg deficient plants. Edited March 22, 2016 by ditchthedealer 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Satchitananda Posted March 22, 2016 Author Share Posted March 22, 2016 Thanks everyone, I think the fact that it had it's worst yellowing day right after getting 4ml of Grow (which was the last time I fed) shows it's no good throwing N at it. I think @@greenfingers1987 is right and MagneCal is ok and it's not the cause of my problems. Pretty sure I know what made my problems a lot worse and that was the time I thought I overfed, flushed a bit then realised I hadn't overfed (like I mentioned a few posts back) but thinking back I was getting random yellow leaves before that anyway. It's in it's dark period right now but I am not looking forward to looking at it tonight because if it deteriorates today as much as it did yesterday, I am fucked. Day before yesterday it didn't look too bad, then yesterday after giving it 4ml Grow it looked awful. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
botanics Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 (edited) @@ananda It'll pick up mate I reckon got some good advice in here off some good growers and not just me e2a typos Edited March 22, 2016 by botanics 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m99 Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 Get that runoff checked!! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenfingers1987 Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 checked for what bud? he is growing in dirt with organic nutes, the soil buffers itself PH wise and as there are no chem salts in organic fed EC will be pointless and inaccurate, I understand that you may think it could be some sort of lock out due to PH (which in dirt is unlikely unless some PH changing amendments were added to the dirt) as they are usually within the correct range especially canna specific such as PM OR biobizz just to name a couple, but even if the PH was coming out at a PH of 2.0 there wouldn't be much you could do about it as when you added the PH'd nute solution the soil would re-buffer that solution rendering the whole exercise useless, as at 4-5 weeks into flower there isn't a right lot to be done about it. not trying to sound like I'm having a dig but it just isn't needed imho, I never check my run off In coco as long as what is going in the top is right with the correct nute amounts and traces I never have an issue 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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