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Bio-bizz Schedule


Guest Red Dragon

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I have tried a few composts, but found feeding a bit hard as I didnt know what nutes were already in it, wasnt ideal for seedlings either as it was too hot, kept overwatering, underwatering. When things went wrong it was hard to know what exactly what was causing problems, if that makes sense :blushing:....

It does indeed make sense, and it sounds awkwardly familiar :offtopic: Coco does seem a bit more forgiving than compost when it comes to under- or overwatering. I've got a rather big bag of coco lying around, maybe I should take it for a spin, so to speak.

Thanks for sharing your experience with your coco-mix :yes:

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I made up my own compost for the first time in an indoor grow, using 30% Loam, 25% WormCast 25% Coir, 20% used Allmix with some ground up Comfrey/Alfalfa/seaweed/sugarbeet pellets

The 30% Loam is what OT1 suggested Granules preferred in a post I'm having trouble re-locating.

Having never used coir before I've been really very happy with its obvious hydrophilic effect benefiting watering greatly and helping to produce amazing roots.

The 60l of remaining used allmix is gonna go on the garden and I'll up the coir ratio next time as well as adding rockdust, bat guanos etc

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Flowery Haze
I have tried a few composts, but found feeding a bit hard as I didnt know what nutes were already in it, wasnt ideal for seedlings either as it was too hot, kept overwatering, underwatering. When things went wrong it was hard to know what exactly what was causing problems, if that makes sense lol....

It does indeed make sense, and it sounds awkwardly familiar :yep: Coco does seem a bit more forgiving than compost when it comes to under- or overwatering. I've got a rather big bag of coco lying around, maybe I should take it for a spin, so to speak.

Thanks for sharing your experience with your coco-mix lol

No probs dude lol

Im thinking about adding some compost to my mix aswell, kind of a comparrison grow at some point to see if there is any benifits. Ive read quite a few others mentioning they have had good results using coco, compost and castings so why not!

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Flowery Haze

Thought I would share a pic of my roots, which was potted on just over a week ago...

post-29251-1244550977_thumb.jpg

Think I need much bigger pots!

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  • 2 months later...

I have one question regarding the feeding schedule, Ive been told to feed with every other watering & not with every watering is this correct? Because I was considering feeding at 1/2 strength EVERY watering.

Thought Id post a slight clearer version of the feeding schedule for you fellas to download or print:

http://www.biobizz.nl/download/growth_sche...lish_300dpi.pdf

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I have one question regarding the feeding schedule, Ive been told to feed with every other watering & not with every watering is this correct? Because I was considering feeding at 1/2 strength EVERY watering.

Thought Id post a slight clearer version of the feeding schedule for you fellas to download or print:

http://www.biobizz.nl/download/growth_sche...lish_300dpi.pdf

Feed every water (assuming you are following a typical wet/dry cycle), but take the official schedule with a large pinch of salt. They want you to use more nutes so you will buy more nutes. Topmax and Bioheavan are by all accounts snake oil, and there are cheaper seaweeds than Algamic.....Fishmix is recommended by many.

I max out at about 0.75ml Grow and 2ml Bloom every water at the height of flower. HPS growers a little more. Don't feed at all until about 3 weeks in final pots.

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Guest Rolling-King
I have one question regarding the feeding schedule, Ive been told to feed with every other watering & not with every watering is this correct? Because I was considering feeding at 1/2 strength EVERY watering.

Thought Id post a slight clearer version of the feeding schedule for you fellas to download or print:

http://www.biobizz.nl/download/growth_sche...lish_300dpi.pdf

Feed every water (assuming you are following a typical wet/dry cycle), but take the official schedule with a large pinch of salt. They want you to use more nutes so you will buy more nutes. Topmax and Bioheavan are by all accounts snake oil, and there are cheaper seaweeds than Algamic.....Fishmix is recommended by many.

i know biobizz recommend using it every watering

but i have used it every second day in the past and given a normal watering the day inbetween, with good quality results.

Edited by sensi-thc
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but i have used it every second day in the past and given a normal watering the day inbetween, with good quality results.

here's a little reading for you m8, you'll get better results if you follow the wet/dry cycle and feed at every watering

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I have one question regarding the feeding schedule, Ive been told to feed with every other watering & not with every watering is this correct? Because I was considering feeding at 1/2 strength EVERY watering.

Thought Id post a slight clearer version of the feeding schedule for you fellas to download or print:

http://www.biobizz.nl/download/growth_sche...lish_300dpi.pdf

Feed every water (assuming you are following a typical wet/dry cycle), but take the official schedule with a large pinch of salt. They want you to use more nutes so you will buy more nutes. Topmax and Bioheavan are by all accounts snake oil, and there are cheaper seaweeds than Algamic.....Fishmix is recommended by many.

I max out at about 0.75ml Grow and 2ml Bloom every water at the height of flower. HPS growers a little more. Don't feed at all until about 3 weeks in final pots.

Ive been growing in hydro but decided to try out soil (perpetual grow) for the first tim plus I can utilise my entire grow area this way. But now Im stuck...allow me to explain:

My rooted clones seem to be doing ok in Biobizz light mix with no nutes not even additive though Im going to use Hygrozyme in flowering (2 weeks in veg then flower) but then again Blueberry is a light feeder.

After a couple of weeks in veg Ill be transplanting in 6 litre pots in allmix which is when theyll be introduced to 12/12 but I dont think Ill need to feed them considering all mix contains a lot more nutes than light mix, assuming the plants will be fine with regular watering for a certain amount of time but thereafter WHEN SHOULD I BEGIN FEEDING THE LIQUID NUTES & AT WHAT DOSAGE?

Thats what Im stuck on at the moment. Should I just be sensible & begin small nute feeding when the plants give signs of slow growth & work my way up as per the BB feed schedule? When I get to week 4 of the feed chart the plants will have taken their full course of flowering.

Does this make sense?

Edited by iminlove
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Guest Rolling-King
but i have used it every second day in the past and given a normal watering the day inbetween, with good quality results.

here's a little reading for you m8, you'll get better results if you follow the wet/dry cycle and feed at every watering

m8 i dont have to read anything

i have allready studied all this stuff many many moons ago, long time before i joined this site,

and i know what a wet and dry cycle is and how was it not followed by not giving biobizz every watering?

and biobizz is organic meaning you cant over fert so any exess nutrient will store in the compost

so by watering every day with ph adjusted (if need be)water and every second day with biobizz your giving the plants a chance to use up the nutrients stored in the compost.

m8 and i have had PURE QUALITY results that i dont think you could get much better than, to be honest,

and there is probably as many different ways of growing as there is growers and i do know my stuff pal.

Edited by sensi-thc
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Should I just be sensible & begin small nute feeding when the plants give signs of slow growth & work my way up as per the BB feed schedule?

:wink: That's sounds like a good idea.......still take the official schedule (dosage wise) with a large pinch of salt. Lots of peeps here drop the bloom at the end and raise the grow slightly. Improves the burn of the bud and reduced phosporous content in what you are smoking.

Edited by BluePixie
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Arnold Layne

You should begin feeding your plants when they show signs of hunger. That is usually about 4 or 6 weeks after going into the compost they are in, that's how long it'll take them to digest the nutes within it.

Personally I do not use Allmix, or lightmix. IMO, they are sub-standard, unblanced and carry a huge footprint. But using JAB+JI, I find it runs out (of nutes, so to speak) after around 4 or 5 weeks, anyways.

and biobizz is organic meaning you cant over fert so any exess nutrient will store in the compost

:guitar:

As far as I know that is completely wrong. You can over-nute using organics, I know that much. And your compost, if in good order, will be alive with micro-organisms so storage of nutes is never going to happen. They are digested by micro-organisms, regardless of whether or not the plant needs them.

It is much better to underfeed. I never use Bio-Buzz products at recommended levels, they're way too high. I generally go for 50% recommended dose, and in my 'umble onion it makes no difference whether you feed every other watering, or just half the dose in every watering.

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Guest Rolling-King

QUOTE(oldtimer1 @ Nov 1 2003, 07:12 PM)

You can’t wash the nutrient reserves from soil, soil based composts or composts except for the immediate soluble salts.

You can,t flush nutrients from plants, you can starve them by just watering them.

My advise if you are using an organic compost, is to alter your feed and reduce the amount towards the end of flowering.

At the peak of blooming you would probably be using 1ml of grow and 3ml of bloom per litre of water. At about the end of week 6 change to some thing like 2ml gr and 2ml bl then 2ml gr 1ml bl then to the end 2 ml gr. This helps maintain the plants healthy right to the end of its life. This gives but that burns sweetly without the acrid taste produced by an excess of phosphorus.

You don’t have to worry about the excess of nutrients in when growing with organic nutrients in the same way as you do with chemical fertilisers

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Edited by sensi-thc
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Guest Rolling-King
and biobizz is organic meaning you cant over fert so any exess nutrient will store in the compost

:ninja:

As far as I know that is completely wrong. You can over-nute using organics, I know that much. And your compost, if in good order, will be alive with micro-organisms so storage of nutes is never going to happen. They are digested by micro-organisms, regardless of whether or not the plant needs them.

It is much better to underfeed. I never use Bio-Buzz products at recommended levels, they're way too high. I generally go for 50% recommended dose, and in my 'umble onion it makes no difference whether you feed every other watering, or just half the dose in every watering.

Organic fertilizers break down locked in organic matter more slowly, so they last longer in the soil than synthetics(chemical)

therfore store/reserve and break down, decay more slower..

and obviously if you went pure mental you could over fert just like you could with anything.

but if you stick around the recomended guidlines its much harder to over fert than say it would be chemical based ferts.

reason for edit to put full stop in

Edited by sensi-thc
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Guest Rolling-King

here Arnold read this, from the man himself oldtimer, talkin about bb, biobizz you'll belive him.

, bb always used to claim that grow contained live bacteria, it may be, but if so seem to have little effect. It seems that in the states and some other countries the n:p:k ratios can only be expressed showing the free and immediately available nutrients, So the 1.8:0.1:6.6 in grow are what are usable directly by the plants immedietly, in other words free chemical salts derived from plant material. The 8:4:6 they quote in the uk is the potential npk, that means that 6.2:3.9:0 is locked in organic matter, its not free until the micro heard and decay release it.

Its like bone meal, which is classed as a slow organic fertiliser it contains NPK of 4:20:0 but none of it is immedietly ready to use, once added to soil it slowly breaks down and decays over many months slowly releasing its nutrients.

This is why ec readings are useless with the likes of biobizz grow and bloom as very little of what they hold are in a free chemical form, with a good micro heard its nutrients should be released steadly over several days or weeks, its like the difference between eating sugar and a bowl of pasta of the same calorific value, as an athlete, the sugar would give huge boost that is used very quickly, the pasta on the other hand provides steady energy over several hours.

Does this help?

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