Bio-bizz Schedule

[heliman]

I have the same question as UglyBudly but using peat moss and perlite with 1 week of veg.

let me know if this seems acceptable:

9 days rooting and hardening off

1 week of veg under 175 watt MH in peatmoss/perlite mix,in final pot size using 1ml grow and 1ml bloom

9 weeks of bloom following the grow schedule for light mix

does light mix have any nutrients?

what problems did OT1 have with Alg a mic? is there a link?

thanks everyone

yes a small amount i start cuttings of in light mix they love it then change to allmix

[heliman]

Ok here goes;

I am a complete noob when it comes to this organic growing and whilst I still intend to grow using NFT, I believe there is "more than one way to skin a cat"!

So, with my NFT table tied up for (up to) another 8 weeks, I intend to do a soil grow in the meantime.

She who must be obeyed has talked me into the organic route so I would really appreciate some advice from the "wise elders" of UK420!

Right, my growing ingredients are going to be all-mix, fed with the boyo-bizz (welsh version) nutes.

I have spent some time looking at the bio-bizz gro-schedule but, being the thick truck driver that I am I don't really understand the "sliding scale" feed regime published in a recent post by OT1, (bio-bizz gro-schedule poster).

So here's my plan;

Seedlings will be germed in paper-towels, and then planted in All-mix. Question 1; is All-mix ok for young seedlings or will I need to buy light-mix as well.

I plan to plant the seedlings in 3 inch square pots for a couple of weeks then move them up to 6 inch square pots, at which time a feeding regime will begin. Finally the plants will be transplanted into 11 litre square pots for the "home-leg". Question 2; using All-mix, is it also necessary to use fish mix and alga-mic or is the all-mix/bio-bizz combination sufficient!

Using the Bio-Bizz schedule as my guide, I am having trouble understanding where grow ends, and bloom begins, (I'm reading grow for 2 weeks then bloom for 8+, but somehow that just doesn't sound enough "veg" time). If I am aways off base, please let me know!

I realise these questions have been answered time and again, so flame away if you will, but I know someone will answer this post so if you are he or she....many thanks from a "water-baby" who has decided to try one of the other grow methods!

Peace.

RD

allmix is two strong you want light mix first when you repot then allmix

[Bish]

Or save money & mix your Allmix with perlite?

[drewgi bachgen]

im useing lite mix for about 2 weeks to start then pot up in bio allmix til i start the flowering process the useing 1mlveg+1mlblm per ltr water then up the bloom each week buy 1 ml

[Arbuscule]

Hi drewgi bachgen

Croeso i uk420 Sounds just the ticket mate - use it as a rough guide and you wont go far wrong.

People may say watch the plant and let it tell you when it's hungry - I spent my first grow trying to learn to speak plant Eventually it made sense some point during the 2nd grow and I started to feel confident enough to up the grow a bit if it looked like it needed it (ie if the leaves were yellowing) and to reduce feed a dab if the leaf tips looked burned.

Good folks on 420 walked me thru it repeatedly untill it sunk in

Now I'm smoking that bud and it's among the sweetest I've ever tasted

Cheers, happy growing

Arbuscule

[AKPOG]

Hey guys, sory about this but I'm a little confused.

I am coming into week 5 with my White Russian (from seed) & 5 Lot5 cuttings. The thing is that my White russian has some bad yellowing of a few leaves at the bottom, otherwise it looks healthy. The Lot5's are showing no signs of yellowing even though they are the same soil & pots & feeding times? The WR is a proper bushy plant & shades the bottom leaves, where as the Lot5's have fewer leaves & light can get to the bottom no problem, is this the reason for yellowing?

My wife went to the shop & bought some 'Morrisons Health Salts' & even though she doesn't toke or grow she said they are the same as Epson Salts? Anyone confirm this?

Here are the ingredients of the 'Health Salts' I have :-

Sodium Biocarbonate PH.EUR 22.6%

Citric Acid PH.EUR 19.5%

Magnesium Sulphate 17.4% (The wanted ingredient??)

Also contains Sucrose (1.22G) and Sodium (185mg) Per level teaspoon.

Should I add a tablespoon per litre of this to the feed for my White Russian?

I really don't want to get this wrong as my WR is looking a true babe at the mo except for her bottom leaves & I'd cry if she died on me.

Cheers

Edited March 17, 2008 by AKPOG

[AKPOG]

No probs, it is the wrong stuff!

Went to Boots & got some 100% w/w Magnesium Sulphate.

[Jim_jim]

Soil should regulate the pH itself, but if your worried about it you can buy a pH metre from garden centres, they're about £5

[Jim_jim]

You have a pH metre that you stick in the soil, cos that should test the soil pH.

But I also think testing the run-off pH is also quite accurate, test the tap water pH as well then and see how pH changes.

But as said soil self regulates its own pH

[oldtimer1]

Measuring run through gives no idea and tells you nothing, in fact not a clue of what happens in the rootball, ie the ph, after a quick runthrough when there will have been virtually no reaction.

Hard water in a saturated root ball may take several hours to reach the composts or soils buffer level. Its slow chemistry, not fast chemical reaction using strong alkalis or acids.

[oldtimer1]

Its school level chemistry for 11 year olds.

Also its really not that critical.

Use utensils that have been washed in fresh uncontaminated rain or ro water, take 150 ml of soil or 200 ml of compost [do not touch with bare skin] add ro or fresh rain water to the 250 ml level in an Erlenmeyer flask, stir, leave until the water is clearish, then test the clear liquid with a clean ph meter calibrated with ph 7 buffer.

That will give a fairly close reading the soil or compost buffer level.

Its not that critical, compost that buffers between 6 and 6.5 is best for hard water areas and a little higher for soft areas.

There are no fixed rules, for instance westlands composts buffer between 5.5 and 6, adding a little dolomite lime, rock phos and calcified seaweed will bring this up. But if you use rock dust as well its nutrients/elements are released faster if the lime products are not added or less is used.

[BIG BUD 1664]

this therd was well worth reading full of good info

[Subvert71]

The BioBizz chart is for rooted cuttings not seedlings.

The optimum ph of the compost for maintaining health and growth is 6.5 to 6.8. It is much harder for the compost to buffer up than to buffer down.

I don't know how many time I have to say this, if you do ph down not below 6.5! You will mess up the micro flora and if not very careful ruin the compost..

In answer to your Q's Mr Dragon your programme vis 3 inch to 6 inch to 11 litre is fine. But for the 3 inch pots use half and half allmix and perlite.

As soon as the rootball is netted with fine roots move them to your 6 inch pots and neat allmix.

Same story for the move to the final pots. Once in the final pots let them root out the soil ball before flowering, as a general rule of thumb once all the plants are showing roots at the drainage holes. Go to 12/12.

You should not need any feed right through these stages. Once you are on 12/12 start feeding 1 ml of both grow and bloom to a litre of water.

At about week 2 of flowering change the mix to 1 ml grow and 2 ml bloom per litre.

At week 3 [21 days] a one off feed of a heaped table spoon of epsom salts per 10 litres add to that 1 ml of grow and 2 ml of bloom.

Round the 4 week mark, the mix is 1ml gr and 3 ml bl.

Once you start to see browning of pistils change to 2 ml gr and 1 ml bl keep with that till the end.

All you really need is grow and bloom + a little epsom salts.

Does this make sense?

An added point, if you see the tissue between the veins on the lower leaves turning a lighter green at any point its likly the first signs of Mg shortage starting an addition of a little epsom salts to the next feed should keep things right. Don’t over do this or else you can lock out other nutrients.

Being a puter man you will love this, I just spent an hr or more trying to find out why my new fire wire drive just would not mount on the desk top. I reinstalled all the extentions/drivers nadt. Then it occored to me it might work if I plugged the firewire cable in. Ot "good with plants shit with computers"

Hiya... just reading up on nute combos, working out best to go with when i go 12/12. Read youre link and had a couple of Q's.

What's the thinking behind the change to 2ml G & 1ml B once you see browning of pistols?

What's the thinking behind adding Epsom salts at day 21 flowering?

Bio bizz reckon going 2, 3, then 4ml of bloom, whilst maintaining a steady 1ml of grow (during bloom)... is this not tayored to cannabis, or have you found better results through experience and therefore go with a different blend?

Curious frst timer, dotting eyes and crossing T's...

[KC]

What's the thinking behind the change to 2ml G & 1ml B once you see browning of pistols?

What's the thinking behind adding Epsom salts at day 21 flowering?

Bio bizz reckon going 2, 3, then 4ml of bloom, whilst maintaining a steady 1ml of grow (during bloom)... is this not tayored to cannabis, or have you found better results through experience and therefore go with a different blend?

Curious frst timer, dotting eyes and crossing T's...

You lower the bloom nutes so you don't get harsh burning and a bad taste from the Pk, you keep feeding bloom to keep the plant healthy.

Epsoms is only needed if you have Mg defiency, but it does tend to show at 2-3 weeks into flower, so if you have it then yes feed epsoms.

My current crop are requiring about 3 ml grow not the 1 ml you say biobizz recommend, each plant is different, it variesfrom strain to strain, pheno to pheno. You just need to learn to read plants and see what they require. Feed guides arem't really much use

[oldtimer1]

Hiya... just reading up on nute combos, working out best to go with when i go 12/12. Read youre link and had a couple of Q's.

What's the thinking behind the change to 2ml G & 1ml B once you see browning of pistols?

What's the thinking behind adding Epsom salts at day 21 flowering?

Bio bizz reckon going 2, 3, then 4ml of bloom, whilst maintaining a steady 1ml of grow (during bloom)... is this not tayored to cannabis, or have you found better results through experience and therefore go with a different blend?

Curious frst timer, dotting eyes and crossing T's...

21 days flowering is round the end of a massive biological change caused by forced flowering caused by light hrs change, its round this time that stretch ends and flower production really takes off. Lots of Mg is needed and used in the following period, a one off dose helps the rapid flower growth that takes place now so flower expansion is not limited by a Mg shortage, a dose at this point keep the plants lower leaves healthy and obviates the Mg needed, being stripped from lower leaves to enable unlimited flowering, this in turn keeps the lower sunleaves doing what they should, ie producing sugars.

You may well get slightly higher yield by maintaining high phosphate levels after the main flush of flowering is over, once the plants are at this stage their nutrient needs are lower overall, by changing the mix so the K values are higher overall and reducing the p you get a much smoother smoke, better terpene production and all in all the final potency also seems better. To sum up the resulting buds burn better, smell nicer and get you higher, this comes from blind a/b sample testing over many grows.

The ratios I gave were only a rough guide for RD, as KC33 says they need tailoring to your plants but in the years since I posted them literally hundreds of members have tried the same thing and produced good product and reported back saying so.

The info comes from many years of experimenting with bb ferts. Its a shame that they have messed with the npk ratios since I wrote the above advise, but it still holds pretty true.