bart Posted May 4, 2008 Share Posted May 4, 2008 [ I only used it in early flowering last time and it did hold off the lsf, but when the buds got bigger i didn't want to foliar, it came with a vengence....only on some plants though yep ,some verities/plants ar more resistant ,iv an AK48 that seems to take any abuse that nature or me can throw at it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Dzerzhinsky Posted May 4, 2008 Author Share Posted May 4, 2008 I think there is an alternative if you dont wanna bubble etc.. I used "vitalink biopac" (Google it) on my seedlings whilst I waited for my essence off Webby to arrive (thanks mate! - I got it now!) Hi DD, Bio-Pac is excellent stuff, it's a mix of root zone bacteria and root stimulants. If you are using RootGrow then it adds beneficial bacteria that aren't in RootGrow. If you are using the Granules from Webby then it's not necessary as that contains Mycorrhizal fungi and beneficial rhizosphere bacteria. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bay33 Posted May 4, 2008 Share Posted May 4, 2008 i am really desperate to get some of this essence but cannot get in touch with webby as the site wont let me use the PM feature I have just been to my grow and the babies are decimated with LSF, PLEASE I NEED SOME ESSENCE HELP PLEASE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davey Jones Posted May 4, 2008 Share Posted May 4, 2008 Bio pac is the liquid form and bio pak is the powder form, now I used the powder and it was great but the liquid I knocked back at the hydroshop as it was unproven to me Is there anyone whos used the liquid type EM2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randalizer Posted May 10, 2008 Share Posted May 10, 2008 (edited) ahhh! me head is spinning. :applause: I need to reread this thread (all 26 pages!) about three more times and take notes (I learned a long time ago that if it isn't written down, it doesn't exist). Thanks one and all for so much food for thought. btw, lsf looks bad. Is there a link available describing it? I don think we have it here in the states. And what is VAM? So I'm looking at buying differing products (I'm in the states btw) and have a few shops to choose from. My first buy was a box from me garden centre. It's a product called "Sure Start" by EB Stones from their Organics line of products. It is a 4-6-2 fertilizer with humic acid. It also has; Bacillus Subtilis Bacillus Licheniformis Bacillus Pumulis Streptomyces Lydicus Streptomyces Greiseus TRICHODERMA HARZIANUM TRICHODERMA VIRIDIE along with Endo Mychorrhizae Pisolithus tinctorious Rhizopogon villosuli Rhizopogon luteolus Rhizopogon amylopogon Rhizopogon fulvigelba and Endo Mychorrhizae (vam) Glomus Intraradices Glomus Mosseae Glomus Aggregatum (ow, that hurt to type) The box recommends 2 Tbs per gallon of soil for potted plants. Now my main concern is allowing the minerals (such as from rock dust) to be taken up more easily by me plants. Would this stuff do the trick? Also I'm wondering. In my area we suffer from Downy Mildew. I've mostly got a handle on it (better extraction, loads of moving air!) but am wondering if perhaps the trichodermas in this box would help with that. Any comments deeply appreciated. I'll be stopping at my "specialised" garden centre (there are two I like in my area) to see what they recommend, suggest, etc and see what they have. I do intend to start a diary here (yes, odd I know being a yank but I like the cross pollination of ideas) and will post results there as well as pull together all my various posts on various topics at this lovely site. cheers! PS Pic is latest from me garden. Edited May 10, 2008 by Randalizer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
growinforlife Posted May 10, 2008 Share Posted May 10, 2008 Bio pac is the liquid form and bio pak is the powder form, now I used the powder and it was great but the liquid I knocked back at the hydroshop as it was unproven to meIs there anyone whos used the liquid type EM2 according to the product description on greens it isn't in fact the same product "Vitalink Biopac is a liquid suspension of beneficial bacteria that apparently does different things to the very similarly named Bio-Plus, although a lack of information from the manufacturer means that we don't really know what..." :applause: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Dzerzhinsky Posted May 10, 2008 Author Share Posted May 10, 2008 btw, lsf looks bad. Is there a link available describing it? I don think we have it here in the states. And what is VAM? So I'm looking at buying differing products (I'm in the states btw) and have a few shops to choose from. My first buy was a box from me garden centre. It's a product called "Sure Start" by EB Stones from their Organics line of products. It is a 4-6-2 fertilizer with humic acid. It also has; Snip......... Now my main concern is allowing the minerals (such as from rock dust) to be taken up more easily by me plants. Would this stuff do the trick? Also I'm wondering. In my area we suffer from Downy Mildew. I've mostly got a handle on it (better extraction, loads of moving air!) but am wondering if perhaps the trichodermas in this box would help with that. Any comments deeply appreciated. I'll be stopping at my "specialised" garden centre (there are two I like in my area) to see what they recommend, suggest, etc and see what they have. I do intend to start a diary here (yes, odd I know being a yank but I like the cross pollination of ideas) and will post results there as well as pull together all my various posts on various topics at this lovely site. cheers! PS Pic is latest from me garden. Living in the states you have access to a huge array of inoculants, both fungal and bacterial. The one you've chosen looks ok but I'd rather get a mix that didn't contain any fertiliser. Humic acid is good but may be better to leave out the fertilisers, give it a go and see how it works out. Can't say if it will work against phylloplane (leaf surface) fungi but can't be sure as it doesn't contain any phylloplane bacteria. VAM - Vesicular Arbuscular Mycorrhizas, it's in the title they are the fungi that form a symbiotic relationship with nearly all land living plants and help them absorb water and nutrients. Any good mycorrhizal inoculant will help your plants make use of the rockdust you've added. Hope that helps:yep: Nice bud Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randalizer Posted May 10, 2008 Share Posted May 10, 2008 VAM - Vesicular Arbuscular Mycorrhizas, it's in the title they are the fungi that form a symbiotic relationship with nearly all land living plants and help them absorb water and nutrients. Any good mycorrhizal inoculant will help your plants make use of the rockdust you've added.Hope that helps:yep: Nice bud Thanks and thank you Felix. you are truly a Prince among Men. Yes, she was a tsasty critter that bud. I'm going to check around the shops here in town (may take a week or so, loads of work just came in) and see what products are available. Since things are okay in me garden I don feel the need to rush out and change things until I'm comfortable with it. Cheers everyone. This thread has me really excited! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randalizer Posted May 10, 2008 Share Posted May 10, 2008 VAM - Vesicular Arbuscular Mycorrhizas, it's in the title Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Zimbra Posted May 12, 2008 Share Posted May 12, 2008 so is rock dust rock phosphate or something totally different? excuse my ignorence Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Dzerzhinsky Posted May 12, 2008 Author Share Posted May 12, 2008 Rockdust is ground up Basalt and rock Phosphate is rock that has high concentrations of phosphate minerals and can be used as a replacement for bonemeal if you don't want to use animal products. Rock Phosphate has a higher percentage of phosphate than Bonemeal but doesn't contain any nitrogen. Would recommend adding mycorrhizal fungi if using rock Phosphate as it's incredibly insoluble and mycorrhizal fungi are particularly good at coaxing phosphates from the compost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capetonian Posted May 12, 2008 Share Posted May 12, 2008 (edited) Good evening people. I'm just trying to offer my help My best results have been achieved by mixing together the following listed items. I also apply the biobizz liquid fertilizers and superthrive, though I find I don't need to use that much when the grow medium has been properly innoculated(sp?). A good product that is available in England is Vita link Bio Pak. It's a dry spore mix that you throw into the soil. I can highly recommend it. Rock dust (finely ground) VAM spores (dry spores) Seaweed extract (liquid) Bat guano (fine powder) Trichoderma spores (liquid) Rock phosphate (mixed with vermiculite) Composted worm castings VAM Spore Application information and rate The majority of crop plants, grasses, indigenous trees and shrubs in South Africa are associated with arbuscular mycorrhizal (AM) fungi. A few non-mycorrhizal plants include cabbages, sugar beet, beetroot and proteas. Other types of mycorrhizal fungi associate with other plant families. Check the mycorrhizal status of your crop or plant of interest, ASK A SCIENTIST. The product is in a granular formulation, which contains specially, selected strains of indigenous southern African AM fungal types. Extensive research has been conducted at South African universities by qualified experts in the field to demonstrate the effects of Mycoroot on plant growth. Trees and Shrubs Transplanting trees or shrubs (indigenous trees; fruit trees; essential oil and medicinal shrubs) Apply 20ml-50ml to the bottom of the planting hole. Apply more product for large plants. Water after planting. Established trees and shrubs (indigenous trees; fruit trees; essential oil and medicinal shrubs; roses) Make a trench around the established plants below the drip line, the trench should be dug until the roots are just visible, care should be taken so as not to disturb or damage the roots. Apply 100ml-250ml around the tree or shrub. Cover the trench. Water. Container plants Repotting of container plants or transplanting from nursery bags apply 5ml - 20ml (larger plants require more product) of per pot placed at the bottom of the planting hole. Gently loosen roots and soil at base of plant and place in hole, fill with growing media or soil and water after planting. Ensure pots are well drained.It can be added to already established container plants by gently loosening the soil and applying 5ml of product to exposed roots at various positions around the pot. Care should be taken not to damage the roots. Graden beds for flowering plants grown from seedlings 10ml of product per seedling placed at the bottom of the planting hole. Water seedlings after planting. Alternatively calculate 5 ml of product per plant and mix well into garden bed soil. Water gently after planting. Edited May 12, 2008 by Owderb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Zimbra Posted May 12, 2008 Share Posted May 12, 2008 Rockdust is ground up Basalt and rock Phosphate is rock that has high concentrations of phosphate minerals and can be used as a replacement for bonemeal if you don't want to use animal products. Rock Phosphate has a higher percentage of phosphate than Bonemeal but doesn't contain any nitrogen.Would recommend adding mycorrhizal fungi if using rock Phosphate as it's incredibly insoluble and mycorrhizal fungi are particularly good at coaxing phosphates from the compost. cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DangerousDave Posted May 17, 2008 Share Posted May 17, 2008 Hi there people, a quick question for any essence bubblin' brew experts out there, any one know how long a batch of essence is good for once the 12 hour brewing is done?? in other words, after I've made a brew and treated my babies, can I store the remaining essence brew (in an airtight container or summit ) for use next week or is it only good to use fresh on the day of brewing? DD brewin' it 420 stylee B) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Dzerzhinsky Posted May 17, 2008 Author Share Posted May 17, 2008 Sorry dude, it's got to be used quickly. I've kept it going for another 24 hours by adding more molasses and continuing to bubble with the heater on but wouldn't recommend going for too much longer. The bacteria could probably go for a while but Trichoderma hyphae are quite delicate and won't take much turbulence when being bubbled to break them up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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